![]() Yeah, he got a damaged VooDoo core from his work for dirt cheap. On a side note, my neighbor is building a pro touring Chevrolet C10 that has a flat plane VooDoo motor and a T56 behind it. 035" aluminum spacer and life was good! It is pretty awesome having car peeps that close to home Well, about an hour later, problem solved! He made me a nice. There may be something out there I could have bought, but this was a bit more convenient. Talked to my neighbor and he said he would be happy to cut one for me quick on his lathe. The dimensions needed to be 1.50 ID and 1.72 OD, not something one would find in a regular shim. After some thought again about taking apart a brand new distributor I decided on the shim. I shot me neighbor a message (Ford Tech and has pretty much his own machine shop at home) and he suggested milling the gear, or just making a shim to make up the difference. So, as I did not want to take apart, or start drilling into a brand new distributor by re drilling the gear to move it. now you can unchecked the Box Swap y und z axis and import. So, with my feeler gauge in hand I got the Holley dizzy to a point where there was no drag and figured out that it needed to come up at least. Ive put together this short list of questions about how the community uses Blend Swap and we. 015", from what I could find, between the block and the bottom of the distributor gear. This difference (I'm sure combined with having the block milled) was causing the gear on the distributor to contact the oil pump shaft boss in the block. After looking close, and then measuring the OE dizzy along side the Holley I figured out that the gear pin hole is a few thousandths lower (in the block) from the seat than the OE dizzy. I was setting up the DS distributor and noticed when tightening the hold down the rotor was really hard to move. Ran into an issue with my Holley Dual Sync distributor this weekend that I'm glad I noticed, might have caused a lot of damage if I had not. Now it is done, with good parts, and much more stout than I should ever need. The rear suspension is probably capable of holding well over double the power I'll be making, but I'd rather spend the money now and have it right. Honestly at what will be my current power level, probably not needed, but I do plan on going up in power, and only wanted to do the rear end once. ![]() On my particular set up no torque arm or PH bar, the remainder of the bars in the picture that loop around the bottom, and come from either side to the snout of the gear housing are only to help keep the rear square during a hard launch. This one should be street-able though as it has a bit of give to it with the bushing mount. The Anti Roll Bar (ARB) that is connected to the back side of the rear end, that has the rod ends that go up to the ARB itself flatten out the car, and is really only for drag racing to aid in planting the rear end evenly on the initial launch. This set up is essentially a modified version of the stock suspension configuration with a change in the location of the upper control arm location/geometry. ![]()
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